The Evolution of a Project – Part 2

Click on the audio logo to listen to Part 2 on The Evolution of a Project.

Central Park NYC #4, New York. 2009

Links:

The Evolution of a Project Part 1

Central Park NYC Images on www.stephenshaub.com

I Love Coffee: Kodak TMAX 100 Processed in Caffenol C

I think the pictures speak for themselves… wow!

Few notes:

Both test images were shot on Kodak TMAX 100 at box speed.

The first test scene was very extreme… Zone 3 on the lower cabinets and the outside snow was Zone 14. The detail images are amazing and I really like how the grain is rendered.

In the second test scene I chose something that had a more “normal” range… deep shadows on the far right bush are Zone 3 and the lightest snow fell on a solid Zone 8… it was snowing during the test shots which is normal for Vermont this time of year, you can see the texture the falling snow makes in the background… the range is quite impressive and very easy to work with.

Both scans were straight scans (Imacon) with no sharpening and no noise reduction applied. In Photoshop my standard contrast adjustments were made  with little to no effort. In both cases I had more than enough shadow information and a simple “S” curve did the trick… much like I would do with Diafine processed negatives.

When I compare these negative to the Fuji Acros negatives I find the Acros is a bit softer and the highlights tend to get very dense whereas the Kodak Tmax 100 negatives are a bit thinner looking but have full shadow detail and very controlled highlight density. The grain on the Tmax 100 in my opinion is  a bit sharper than the Acros but both look really nice.

Both test images were shot on my 1960 Rollei TLR “F” (120). The first test image was at F5.6 at 1/4 sec and the second image was F11 at 1/30th.

How’s that for a great way to start the New Year!

Caffenol C Note:

I am working on a new book which will outline the technique I use for processing with Caffenol C and also give a starting direction for scanning and Photoshop adjustments to these negatives. I hope to finish sometime this winter so stay tuned.

The Flip Flop Decade: The Last Ten Years of Photography

Click on the audio blog logo to listen to this 14 minute review of the last 10 years of photography from my perspective as a hybrid artist and where the industry is possibly going in the next decade.

To everyone I wish a safe and happy New Years and stay tuned for a new post in a few days.

I Love Coffee: Caffenol C Developer Test 2

The sample images below are my second set of test shots processed using Caffenol C… the first image is Ilford FP4+ and the second is Fuji Acros… the Acros in my opinion is quite amazing! The Acros has the lowest fog level of any film I have tested so far (8 films and counting in Caffenol) and has a good usable range and very nice fine grain. The FP4+ was processed using the time posted on Digital Truth with very good success.

Ilford FP4+ Processed in Caffenol C
Fuji Acros Processed in Caffenol C

I’m not sure if it reads on the screen but in the Acros image there is very good detail in the left side dark region… both images were shot with my Leica MP with a 28mm lens at box speed. The Acros processing time and technique will be discussed later…

Viva la Revolution

I Love Coffee: Caffenol C Developer, Test 1

If coffee is good for me (and it is)…. it must be good for my film, right? I had heard about developing film in coffee back when I went to RIT but have never got around to trying it- until now.

My first test rolls were Kodak 400TX in both 35mm and in 120. The 35mm (above image) was shot in my Leica MP with a 28mm lens and the 120 was shot with the Cuboid using a F72 pinhole.

The method I used for mixing the developer can be found here on Digital Truth. My agitation was 1st minute constant and then 3 inversions per minute till end of time which for 400TX I chose 30 minutes at 70 F. After looking at my test negatives I think they are over-developed by quite a bit but my Imacon had no issue making a good scan. The increased development was a result I believe of the ascorbic acid added in the Caffenol C recipe. If I were to do 400TX again with this recipe I would go for around 20 minutes but I would need to run a test to confirm that time.

If you google Caffenol C or just Caffenol you will find a wide range of opinions regarding this processing technique. The grain is large and sharp and the film is VERY low contrast but that can be a good thing for scanning.

So why would you want to do this?

  1. It’s cheap.
  2. It is enviromentally sound.
  3. It has a unique visual quality from other developers I’ve used… a “vintage” quality.
  4. It produces negatives that are “easy” to scan.
  5. It can be done on almost all films with varying degrees of success.
  6. It’s fun!

If you want to see a larger version of the picture above click here. Please note it is a large file.

Next test…. Ilford Fp4+ in Caffenol C using the time suggestion also found on Digital Truth. The 400TX I used for this test is a bit too fast for my current needs and from what I can gather from other users of Caffenol C Fp4+ is a good choice… stay tuned.

One last note… it smells like hell!

Viva la Revolution!

Link to article on RIT (Rochester Institute of Technology) web site:

A Use for that Last Cup of Coffee: Film and Paper Development

20 Stop Dynamic Range Technique

Here is a quick technique I use from time to time to get the maximum usable dynamic range out of film on a contrasty scene.

  • Film: Kodak TMAX 400 (TMY-2)
  • Developer: PMK 1:2:100 @70 F (Mixed with Distilled H2O)

Please note: If you have never used PMK developer understand that it requires careful handling… always wear gloves and use safe chemical handling techniques as it can be quite toxic. Also with T Grain films the temperature is important so use a water bath to maintain 70 F during processing.

Exposure:

Expose the scene for the shadows… if you have a spot meter make sure you have a solid Zone III…. don’t worry about the highlights as they will be just fine. (Stay tuned for my review of the new spot meter by Metered Light!)

Once you have your exposure figured out overexpose by 3 stops. You could always just set your meter to an EI of 50 instead of the normal 400 for TMY-2 (this is what I do). In simplest terms we are overexposing by 3 stops and developing for 50% of our normal time. The developing procedure listed below represents a 50% reduction in development time from my normal with this film / developer combination. This technique will work for different films with PMK as long as you follow the simple rule…. overexpose by 3 stops and reduce your development time by 50%.

Processing:

1. Pre-wet- 1 minute at 70F, constant agitation (distilled H2O).

2. Developer: PMK for 7.5 minutes (1+2+100). Continuous agitation for the first 30 seconds then one inversion every 15 seconds till completed time. Save the used developer as you will use it again in the after bath.

3. Stop: Tap water, 2 minutes fill and dump with agitation. Do not use anything but water!

4. Fixer: TF-4 for 5 minutes, follow package directions. Only use TF-4 fixer!

5. After Bath: For those of you not use to using PMK you reuse the saved exhausted developer by dumping it into the tank for a second time after the fixer which will increase the image stain. 2 minutes with standard agitation. There are schools of thought that suggest that the after-bath is not important… with some films like 400TX I would agree but with this technique and film it is a good thing in my opinion.

6. Wash for 30 minutes.

7. Wetting Agent.

8. Dry.

Note: This technique as outlined here is for scanning purposes and I have not tested it for wet darkroom usage so I do not know how well it would work, BUT- for scanning it is fantastic. I would only use this technique for situations where the contrast / dynamic range is well beyond “normal”… this plus a bit of pre-exposure goes a long ways (no pre-exposure was used on this image but I will write an article on this technique very soon)! I have tested it on “normal” scenes with success, but it does require a bit more work in Photoshop to correct for the huge expressive shadows and somewhat flattened highlights, so it is best to use this for high contrast scenes.

So the results….drumroll please…

Inside Indian Hill Imageworks

In the image above the shadows (Zone III) were placed on the dark barn board above the windows… the snow outside which was in direct sunlight was 17 stops brighter… this is a straight scan on our Imacon… no dodging or burning! There were no lights on inside the building so it was quite dark. In Photoshop I added a minor “S” curve but nothing else. The grain is very nice and controlled for 35mm. The snow outside the window has nice detail (not sure how well that reads in the online image)… nothing is lost on either end.

Camera: Leica MP with a 28mm lens.

Chemical resources:

I chose TMY-2 for this test as it is box speed in PMK and it is a film I really like… another good choice would be TMAX 100 which is also box speed but with the 3 stop overexposure you have a working film speed of 12… time to break out the tripod!

Viva la Revolution-
Stephen

Print Grain and Print Surface Resolution

AudioBlog LogoThis audio focuses on film grain and how it can translate through scanning into print grain. Plus- how is this connected to and affected by Print Surface Resolution (or PSR)… link to article here on FR on PSR.

A Few of my Favorite Films

AudioBlog LogoClick on the audio logo to listen to this 10 minute discussion on my favorite films both black and white and color and which developer combo I use at Indian Hill Imageworks for the vast majority of my artworks.

Is Archiving Film Necessary

AudioBlog Logo

There are two parts to this post: first an HD video for fun followed by an 8 minute thought-provoking discussion on the “need” to archive film in the hybrid workflow- click on the Audio Logo to listen…

When Everything Old is New

AudioBlog Logo

Click on the Audio Blog Logo to listen to this 4 minute audio by Stephen Schaub.
Below is a perfect example of old plus new… the new Lomo Fuji Instax Mini back, which is designed to fit the new Lomo Diana F+ (nice but a bit too sharp for my taste)… but with a bit of work (about 2 hours)  it fits the vintage Diana Camera and Diana clone cameras perfectly and has a resulting look and feel that is amazing!!… more on that soon.

532_0174
Notice nice fit... NO TAPE NEEDED!
532_0173
Now Thats a Thing of Beauty!
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Perfect fit on the bottom with no light leaks!
color_milltertowndinnerct_aug09diana151mod1
Diner. Exposure 1 second hand-held. Scan from Instax Positive.