I am heading to the Cotswolds (UK) in just over a week and running one last set of tests over the next few days…. looking at chromogenic B&W films (and converted Portra 400) compared to traditional B&W films processed in Pyro 510 (stand development)… all for the purposes of scanning.
Stay tuned!
PS- and yes that is Fuji Neopan 400CN… very hard to get here in the USA as it is not imported… made by Ilford for Fuji, based on XP2 Super but it is a different film made to Fuji Specs… time will tell.
Click on play button to listen to the review:
Images: click on each to view larger….
Film Data Sheet: Click Here
additional reading: www.martinzimelka.com/pages/Rollei_Retro400s.html
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
Click on the audio play button to listen to my review of this great classic film!
Bergger BRF 400+ at EI 6400!!!!! A very low light test….. click on the image to see larger.
Development as outlined in audio:
1:100 Rodinal at 68-70F 2 Hour Stand Dev
Usable EI from 400-1600
1:50 Rodinal at 68-70F 2 Hour Stand Dev
Usable EI from 1000/1600 – 6400+
Another great alt developer is Caffenol CL… just google it and follow the directions exactly!!! Usable out to 3200 but the Rodinal version outlined above is better at the higher speeds. And you can see the grain is a bit softer but the tonal range is still crazy great!
NOTE: I meter my shadows for Zone 4 in most cases… with this film it is VERY important for faster EI’s to meter for the shadows… highlights are not a problem. Here is a video on why meter for Zone 4.
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
For 35mm and a classic feeling this has become my go to film! More on my processing techniques in a later post.
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
PS- will be in New Orleans starting Sunday for a few days of shooting… Drop me a line if you are in the area.
You asked for it and I never did it!
I love coffee and I love Caffenol and now there is a great resource with a online free book, recipes, tips and more! Check it out!!
Ok, so lets put everything together and start processing some film. First, be sure to listen/ watch Part 1 and Part 2 prior to this post as there is important information in those posts not covered here. Then click on the Audio Blog Logo to hear an 11 minute summary of tests- what worked and what didn’t- and my thoughts on successful stand development.
Recipes described in the Audio Portion of this post:
Process as described for 3 Hours. You can cut this in half for smaller tanks.
Process as described for 1 – 1.5 hours. You can cut this in half for smaller tanks.
You can use the recipes above for many films… I’d suggest the TMY-2 Reciepe for 2 hours with films such as TX, Delta 100, Delta 400 and HP5… do a test at 2 hours and then one at 3 hours to see what works best for you!
Source for additional Information and example images (good book to buy!):
Iridescent Light Book by Michael Axel
Thanks also to Carlo Chiopris for his thoughts/ valuable information when I was starting this process:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cchiopris/sets/72157610266094791/
The Unblinking Eye Article: Appreciating Rodinal by Ed Buffaloe
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
In this second installment on Stand Development I will outline some basic equipment needed, proper agitation techniques and other necessary processing information…
Stay tuned for the Part 3 in a few days!
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
This is part one in a multi-part article on stand development and semi-stand development (BW) for the purposes of scanning. I have been spending much time looking at different dilutions, different agitation techniques, different recipies and I have come up with a good working solution for my tested films that produces perfect results every time.
To listen to the audioblog portion of this post … just click on the Audio Logo.
Many of you know I really like Diafine Developer (I have written several articles here on its fantastic qualities for scanning)… the techniques I am about to outline have many of the advantages of Diafine but with finer grain and better highlight separation.
Before we get started, here is a shopping list if you want to try this technique for yourself:
Film: Fuji Acros or Kodak TMY-2 (New TMAX 400)
R09 “One Shot” Developer (Rodinal Replacement)
Kodak Xtol Developer
Ascorbic Acid
Borax
Or you can use 20 Mule Team Borax found at most Supermarkets.
Distilled Water (a few gallons)
Plus you will need, of course, your standard darkroom chems: stop bath, fixer, and hypo.
Stay tuned for Part 2 in two days!
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
Ethical Note: I do not endorse any vendor of photographic material over another. The links provided above are just an easy source to find the materials needed but by no means are the best or only source.
Figital Revolution 