Review of the new LOMO Instant Wide and a comparison to the cult classic Fuji Instax 500AF. This is the first in a multi part series on instant materials and cameras…
Sample Pictures: I chose a difficult mixed lighting situation to show the contrast range of the material and low enough light that the camera would choose F8. My focus with the LOMO is much better than using the default settings because of my focusing scale (see below) and even then it is not as crisp as the Fuji 500AF. All shots were on a tripod for maximum stability.
Note on changing film… I discovered that you can not change the film while on the tripod with the LOMO camera due to the tripod socket placement, on the Fuji 500AF you can change film while the camera is on the tripod.
One correction from the video… I mention that Instax Wide film is approximately $18 for 10 shots, that of course is the price for 20 shots. Also, I purchased both cameras used in this review and all reviews here on FR.
Viva la Revolution- Stephen
16 thoughts on “LOMO Instant Wide Review”
Hey, is the auto focus on the 500af fairly quick, or do you have to wait a few seconds for it to focus every shot?
Compared to an instax 300 or 210 that is zone focused and pretty much ready to snap?
its pretty fast….
Hi ! I actually have a dilemma between the Lomo Instant Wide for 190 euros (full combo with lenses and filters) and a Fujifilm 500AF for 150 euros.
I just can’t choose between the versatility of the Lomo and the gorgeous pictures of the 500AF.
I will use it by day and night but I already have a fairly good LED lighting torch with adjustable light.
Please help me ! 🙂
Biggest issue is the 500AF has a slowest shutter speed of 1/8 of a second and as the lens is F12.7 it can be an issue… the lomo can go down to 10 seconds and even has a bulb feature… I do with there was an inbetween camera but as of now no.
Thank you for your reply !
I was thinking about going for the fuji fp-100C sheets and then have wider options with fujifilm and polaroïd cameras but I guess the problem will be the same.
Did you ever use this kind of sheets and if so what is your favorite camera for it?
Thank you !
I use a lot of 100C but please note it was just discontinued yesterday so not a long term plan. I like the instax wide on a converted 110B camera for most works….
So, if you could choose between converting an existing Polaroid rangefinder with a Instax Wide back and the Lomo Instant Wide, which would you choose?
It all depends on the control you want… the polaroid rangefinder like say a 110B has a much better lens, faster lens, more shutter speed options, greater durability and is just great but it is bigger, heavier and a lot more $$$ —- this is the version that I use because I want options…
Steve. An easier way to create a distance scale is to put a ground glass in an empty Instax pack. Set the camera to B and use a clothes pin to hold the time button down on the lens cap. Use a well-lit target and a tape measure and voila! No wasted film.
Yep have done that on my 110B but figured most people would not have a ground glass so was trying to make a system that everyone could use…. provided they have a tape measure!!!
Hi Stephen, in your experience, have you had your pictures that are closer (not infinity) ending up not sharp despite being placed at the correct distance? Any ideas? I dropped my camera once and I am now suspecting it to act weird because of that. Shots at infinity work well tough. Cheers, Thomas
run a test with a measuring tape and make a new focus scale… if it varies from that then I suspect the drop did something bad…
when its dark, but you disable the flash, will the camera calculate correct shutter value, lets say, 1-20 seconds?
Hi, there. Great review. To measure the focus distances should I do it from the film plane or front of the lens. Thanks.
Always film plane….