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	<title>Comments on: Scanning, Color Mangement and Photoshop&#8230;The Diafine and TX Sage&#8230;Part 2</title>
	<atom:link href="http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/</link>
	<description>A Maverick Manifesto for the 21st Century Photograher</description>
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		<title>By: Lewis W</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-991</link>
		<dc:creator>Lewis W</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 May 2009 21:38:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-991</guid>
		<description>I will pursue the Silverfast idea.  Someone came by with a ColorMunki Create colorimiter and software pkg for calibrating the monitors [the Wacom as well].  Pretty pictures but still not helpful with the output.  Anyway, I think I have enough to get going.  Looks like a tougher deal than I thought.

Thanks for the help.

LW</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I will pursue the Silverfast idea.  Someone came by with a ColorMunki Create colorimiter and software pkg for calibrating the monitors [the Wacom as well].  Pretty pictures but still not helpful with the output.  Anyway, I think I have enough to get going.  Looks like a tougher deal than I thought.</p>
<p>Thanks for the help.</p>
<p>LW</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: figitalrevolution</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-987</link>
		<dc:creator>figitalrevolution</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 May 2009 14:52:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-987</guid>
		<description>I would get a version of Silverfast scanning software as I feel it is better for your scanner with regards to icc control and scanner settings and this married to the monitor colorimeter will get your in the &quot;ballpark&quot;. I have not used the Color Munki so I do not have an opinion. Here is a link to a monitor cal device I have used and my students use and that will not break the bank...

http://www.amazon.com/GretagMacbeth-Eye-One-Display-color-calibration/dp/B0007ZGCSW

Scanning Software Link:
http://www.silverfast.com/

Cheers-
Stephen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would get a version of Silverfast scanning software as I feel it is better for your scanner with regards to icc control and scanner settings and this married to the monitor colorimeter will get your in the &#8220;ballpark&#8221;. I have not used the Color Munki so I do not have an opinion. Here is a link to a monitor cal device I have used and my students use and that will not break the bank&#8230;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/GretagMacbeth-Eye-One-Display-color-calibration/dp/B0007ZGCSW" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/GretagMacbeth-Eye-One-Display-color-calibration/dp/B0007ZGCSW</a></p>
<p>Scanning Software Link:<br />
<a href="http://www.silverfast.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.silverfast.com/</a></p>
<p>Cheers-<br />
Stephen</p>
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		<title>By: Lewis W</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-985</link>
		<dc:creator>Lewis W</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 08 May 2009 13:44:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-985</guid>
		<description>Thank you for the information.  

I run a &#039;wet-paint&#039; operation for which material costs alone are sinus-clearing.  

The digital area is a new and mandatory business direction and this is the origin of my &#039;out-of-depth&#039; comment.  

Yes, I&#039;ve priced Rip software [Onyx] and that was the cause of the &quot;piggybank&quot; comment.  

My V-750 Pro [Epson] came with a 2.6 version of MonacoEZColor which includes IT8 reflective and transmissive targets:  Will these along with the inexpensive colorimeter you mentioned put me in the ballpark {for the scanner, at least}?  And how do you feel about consumer hard/software pkgs like the ColorMunki?  

Again, thanks a million for the help.

LW</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you for the information.  </p>
<p>I run a &#8216;wet-paint&#8217; operation for which material costs alone are sinus-clearing.  </p>
<p>The digital area is a new and mandatory business direction and this is the origin of my &#8216;out-of-depth&#8217; comment.  </p>
<p>Yes, I&#8217;ve priced Rip software [Onyx] and that was the cause of the &#8220;piggybank&#8221; comment.  </p>
<p>My V-750 Pro [Epson] came with a 2.6 version of MonacoEZColor which includes IT8 reflective and transmissive targets:  Will these along with the inexpensive colorimeter you mentioned put me in the ballpark {for the scanner, at least}?  And how do you feel about consumer hard/software pkgs like the ColorMunki?  </p>
<p>Again, thanks a million for the help.</p>
<p>LW</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: figitalrevolution</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-974</link>
		<dc:creator>figitalrevolution</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 May 2009 03:07:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-974</guid>
		<description>Lewis W... Please, it is &lt;b&gt;Mr. Hot Shot!&lt;/b&gt;

To answer your question is difficult as what you are looking for is not easy to put into a simple few sentence response or something which may be affordable, to quote you, &quot;without breaking what remains of my piggy bank?&quot; Also, there are different levels of quality and each of course has different costs associated with it. 

Here are a few suggestions... 

1. Work in sRGB from Scan to Print.
2. Make sure your monitor is calibrated using a monitor calibration device ($200 or less). 
3. Unless you are willing to spend some major bucks on a good RIP/ profile software (starting at around $3000+ without the spectro, have someone make the required printer icc profiles for you. This service when done right uses targets generated on your printer. This normally costs between $50 - $100 dollars per icc depending on who makes the profile... ps, I do not make profiles for sale.
4. For your scanner calibration just scan everything as a RGB positive, 16 Bit into either sRGB or Beta RGB but in the second example just convert to sRGB when you open photoshop, run sRGB as your default space in PS. I recommend sRGB as most monitors can show this space with calibration and it is a smaller compression from RGB to CMYK which means more accurate color /  tone in the final print.
5. If you do not have a good scanner (at least a high end Nikon film scanner or better an Imacon or Premier) and you want the best from your film then send your film out to be scanned. As you are not printing that large a good Epson scanner may work for you but a scanner is only as good as the operator. I&#039;d do a side by side and see if the cost of a pro scan makes a difference in your work.
6. Start saving money! Seriously... digital printing and scanning is fairly inexpensive on the low end but once you demand more the cost rises very, very quickly. For example the RIP and profiler I use at my studio runs over $12,000 without the spectro or printer.

Again, you must decided what quality level you really need but if you follow steps 1-5 and keep your monitor in cal and have decent icc profiles for your printer and work in sRGB most issues will be resolved.

Stephen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Lewis W&#8230; Please, it is <b>Mr. Hot Shot!</b></p>
<p>To answer your question is difficult as what you are looking for is not easy to put into a simple few sentence response or something which may be affordable, to quote you, &#8220;without breaking what remains of my piggy bank?&#8221; Also, there are different levels of quality and each of course has different costs associated with it. </p>
<p>Here are a few suggestions&#8230; </p>
<p>1. Work in sRGB from Scan to Print.<br />
2. Make sure your monitor is calibrated using a monitor calibration device ($200 or less).<br />
3. Unless you are willing to spend some major bucks on a good RIP/ profile software (starting at around $3000+ without the spectro, have someone make the required printer icc profiles for you. This service when done right uses targets generated on your printer. This normally costs between $50 &#8211; $100 dollars per icc depending on who makes the profile&#8230; ps, I do not make profiles for sale.<br />
4. For your scanner calibration just scan everything as a RGB positive, 16 Bit into either sRGB or Beta RGB but in the second example just convert to sRGB when you open photoshop, run sRGB as your default space in PS. I recommend sRGB as most monitors can show this space with calibration and it is a smaller compression from RGB to CMYK which means more accurate color /  tone in the final print.<br />
5. If you do not have a good scanner (at least a high end Nikon film scanner or better an Imacon or Premier) and you want the best from your film then send your film out to be scanned. As you are not printing that large a good Epson scanner may work for you but a scanner is only as good as the operator. I&#8217;d do a side by side and see if the cost of a pro scan makes a difference in your work.<br />
6. Start saving money! Seriously&#8230; digital printing and scanning is fairly inexpensive on the low end but once you demand more the cost rises very, very quickly. For example the RIP and profiler I use at my studio runs over $12,000 without the spectro or printer.</p>
<p>Again, you must decided what quality level you really need but if you follow steps 1-5 and keep your monitor in cal and have decent icc profiles for your printer and work in sRGB most issues will be resolved.</p>
<p>Stephen</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Lewis W</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-973</link>
		<dc:creator>Lewis W</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 May 2009 02:20:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-973</guid>
		<description>That&#039;s what I thought...hot shot!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s what I thought&#8230;hot shot!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Lewis W</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-935</link>
		<dc:creator>Lewis W</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2009 00:42:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-935</guid>
		<description>Er,  this may sound really basic but I&#039;m very confused about the monitor/scanner/printer profile software and colorimeter/spectrophotometers out there.  I&#039;m not a professional but am very unhappy with the output from my R2400 using a Mac Pro [10.5.6] and a BenQmonitor/Wacom Cintiq and CS4/PainterX.  Can you point me in the right direction without breaking what remains of my piggy bank?  I&#039;m trying to get good color 8X10 and 13X19 prints from scanned Ectachromes, digital photos and computer-generated artwork.   Lastly, I&#039;m commited to making a go of all this but feel out of my depth in the digital color management area.  Thanks in advance for any advice or help.

Lewis W</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Er,  this may sound really basic but I&#8217;m very confused about the monitor/scanner/printer profile software and colorimeter/spectrophotometers out there.  I&#8217;m not a professional but am very unhappy with the output from my R2400 using a Mac Pro [10.5.6] and a BenQmonitor/Wacom Cintiq and CS4/PainterX.  Can you point me in the right direction without breaking what remains of my piggy bank?  I&#8217;m trying to get good color 8X10 and 13X19 prints from scanned Ectachromes, digital photos and computer-generated artwork.   Lastly, I&#8217;m commited to making a go of all this but feel out of my depth in the digital color management area.  Thanks in advance for any advice or help.</p>
<p>Lewis W</p>
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		<title>By: figitalrevolution</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-604</link>
		<dc:creator>figitalrevolution</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2009 01:12:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-604</guid>
		<description>The info on Lindeblooms site is great and I have developed a method to alter the gamut shape/ rendering of my icc to help correct for tricky issues with deep blues turning purple (using Ergosoft Poster Print RIP)... I highly recommend Bruce Lindblooms site!

Cheers-
Stephen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The info on Lindeblooms site is great and I have developed a method to alter the gamut shape/ rendering of my icc to help correct for tricky issues with deep blues turning purple (using Ergosoft Poster Print RIP)&#8230; I highly recommend Bruce Lindblooms site!</p>
<p>Cheers-<br />
Stephen</p>
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		<title>By: Glenn Chan</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-580</link>
		<dc:creator>Glenn Chan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Feb 2009 23:08:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-580</guid>
		<description>There&#039;s some great information on the &quot;blue turns purple&quot; problem at Bruce Lindebloom&#039;s website:
http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?MunsellCalcHelp.html

If you want to maximize dynamic range and the white balance in your image isn&#039;t perfect, you can do highlight recovery to get free highlight detail.
http://www.free-photoshop-plugins.com/download-filters/white-balance-plug-in.htm
(Shooting RAW and doing highlight recovery is the way to go, but I don&#039;t think those tools are available for non-RAW files.)

Hope that helps.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There&#8217;s some great information on the &#8220;blue turns purple&#8221; problem at Bruce Lindebloom&#8217;s website:<br />
<a href="http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?MunsellCalcHelp.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?MunsellCalcHelp.html</a></p>
<p>If you want to maximize dynamic range and the white balance in your image isn&#8217;t perfect, you can do highlight recovery to get free highlight detail.<br />
<a href="http://www.free-photoshop-plugins.com/download-filters/white-balance-plug-in.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.free-photoshop-plugins.com/download-filters/white-balance-plug-in.htm</a><br />
(Shooting RAW and doing highlight recovery is the way to go, but I don&#8217;t think those tools are available for non-RAW files.)</p>
<p>Hope that helps.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: figitalrevolution</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-489</link>
		<dc:creator>figitalrevolution</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jan 2009 22:18:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-489</guid>
		<description>Mike- on our printer at Indian Hill Imageworks (d&#039;Vinci Fine Art Printer) we print all black and white images as quadtones using inks from Inkjet Mall. It is possible to get very neutral prints from CMYK inks but not nearly as nice as a good quadtone print. I convert all files to gray gama 2.1 before printing.

Cheers-
Stephen</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mike- on our printer at Indian Hill Imageworks (d&#8217;Vinci Fine Art Printer) we print all black and white images as quadtones using inks from Inkjet Mall. It is possible to get very neutral prints from CMYK inks but not nearly as nice as a good quadtone print. I convert all files to gray gama 2.1 before printing.</p>
<p>Cheers-<br />
Stephen</p>
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		<title>By: Mike</title>
		<link>http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/03/29/scanning-color-mangement-and-photoshopthe-diafine-and-tx-sagepart-2/#comment-488</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jan 2009 20:58:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://figitalrevolution.wordpress.com/?p=273#comment-488</guid>
		<description>Do you typical convert to grayscale prior to printing or do you save the final final as RGB? I&#039;m fairly new to scanning black and white negs (primarily Tri-x) and to date I have not printed any yet; I just post them to Flickr. But I am interested in printing so want to learn the best workflow for black and white.
Great site - thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do you typical convert to grayscale prior to printing or do you save the final final as RGB? I&#8217;m fairly new to scanning black and white negs (primarily Tri-x) and to date I have not printed any yet; I just post them to Flickr. But I am interested in printing so want to learn the best workflow for black and white.<br />
Great site &#8211; thanks.</p>
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